This time of year, diners turn into a sea of hungry sashimi and sushi eaters, thanks to a new year tradition that’s ingrained into our culture by Japanese immigrants. Some say that sashimi eating here is more popular than sipping champagne when the clock strikes midnight on the new year.

Of course, both sashimi and sushi pair well with beer, too, and you may BYOB to the new Miso Phat Sushi at Azeka Mauka shopping center until its liquor license is approved, hopefully by March.

The other good news is that Miso Phat is also open today on New Year’s Eve for lunch and dinner, as well as New Year’s Day at the height of the sashimi-eating tradition that is so popular.

“My whole concept is not to run an L.A.- type sushi bar or a Tokyo-type sushi bar,” says owner Shawn Steadman, who also runs the original Miso Phat near Dollie’s Pub in Kahana. “We’re Maui based with the idea of eating fish in its purest form – plucked right from the ocean off of my boat, Shiso Phat. It’s so cool!”

The second Miso Phat Sushi opened Nov. 9 to a great response.

“Everything here is fresh, fresh, fresh as it gets,” says Steadman. “I started off to catch fish for my personal use and to enter some tournaments. But now I’m catching for my restaurants, too. Last week, I caught mahi and opakapaka. I walk right in with the whole fish.”

Sharon Drayer, who ran the backstage for the Maui Arts & Cultural Center for years, is now restaurant manager. She loves her new hours and pampering diners, instead of divas and rock stars. Of course, they are more than welcome, too.

Drayer and server Caren Pantezzi suggest that you begin your feast at Miso Phat Sushi with some miso soup, edamame, seaweed salad and/or baked mussels.

Ahren Uyeda is executive chef and he’s been around from the old Da Sushi Bar days to Isana Restaurant.

“The locals love his dynamite,” Pantezzi says. “It’s a California roll topped with shrimp and avocado with unagi sauce and sesame seeds. His chirashi sushi are really incredible too with an assortment of fish and vegetables on sushi rice.”

Uyeda is backed up with two sushi chefs each shift, including Jay R. Oao, who will impress you with the 007 Roll (Miso Secretive); the Rainbow Roll (Miso Pretty); the 69 Roll (Miso Horny); and the Rockin’ Roll (Miso Groupie).

Soy sauces come in regular, organic and low sodium. There is even a keiki menu with baked teriyaki salmon and two pieces of shrimp tempura and rice.

The ambience is soothing grey walls with comfortable seats at the sushi bar, fish art, high-top wooden tables and a retail area with hats, T-shirts and other items, designed by Steadman’s wife, Joy Steadman. Her hubby says he moved from Fort Worth, Texas, to Tulsa, Okla., to open a seafood restaurant. But he’s been on Maui for decades as owner of Wailea Water Sports and a waiter in fine dining restaurants. Their son, Nate, is a sous chef in the growing enterprise.

“With my background, I like to train all of the servers,” says Shawn. “We make our own chile-pepper water here and I make fresh lilikoi ice cream from the vines in my own yard. It’s so good.”

From nigiri to maki to sashimi to temaki hand rolls, it’s all good.

“Our sushi is all really HUGE,” Steadman brags. “With a name like Miso Phat, that’s how it ought to be.”

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